WEST of Niort, the capital town of Deux-Sevres, is Bessines, at the gateway to the Marais Poitevin, or Venise Verte as it is famously known, writes Beryl Brennan.
The village straddles the D9 to Coulon and is the gateway to angelica country, but also each May Bessines plays host to the Angelica Festival.
Angelica archangelica is a perennial plant growing to five or six feet high with large leaves and flat heads of greenish-white flowers on a rigid stem.
Roots, stems and flowers are produced in the first year and in the second year the angelica blossoms produce seed.
It was brought to the area in the early 17th century by nuns nursing the sick during the great plague of Niort.
The nuns knew of the healing properties of the plant, using the root to grind to a powder and mix with treacle and water, or to make ‘the four stolers’ vinegar.
Some called it a herb of the Holy Spirit but angelica was preferred by the moderates because of its ‘angelical virtues’.
According to legend, a piece of angelica worn in a pocket around the neck warded off the plague.
Preferring humid conditions, it was planted in the shallows of the Marais, where it is found today.
Up to the Revolution in 1789, the plant was mainly used for candied stems and liqueur and some ten tons were exported each year.
In the UK, angelica grows in some of London’s public gardens and in Lincoln’s Inn Fields and is used in cooking, salads and soups.
Germany cultivates it for the pharmaceutical industry at Thuringe, Spain exports large quantities and in Belgium the roots and seeds make up essential oils.
The Chinese use it in food-processing and perfumery, whilst in Scandinavia its name is ‘kvann’ and is one of the main plants in Norwegian gardens, the prime recipe being angelica seed bread.
As a medicinal remedy, it is a tonic, a depurative to relieve digestion, coughs and has special properties against poison.
It can be used to make infusions, steepings and is a flavouring ingredient in Melissa water, balsam and angelica aromas.
One of the traditional instruments of Bachkirie in Russia is the kuray, which is a long flute cut from a dried angelica stem.
In the early 20th century, eight families were involved in the cultivation of angelica, including Lachambre, Cassegrain and the Chenilleau brothers, one of whose employees, Marc Lumet, became a recognised artist in angelica sculpture.
The first reported case of the plague was at Le Logis de l’Hercule in Niort, but these days the mediaeval hostelry contains a collection of artefacts relating to the husbandry and processing of angelica.
The Fete de l’Angelique is organised by the Association de Promotion de l’Angelique at Bessines in the middle of May each year and, besides angelica stalls, there will be a multitude of craft stalls and a display of mediaeval dance and song.
Beryl Brennan worked for more then 10 years with BBC Manchester regional radio, before moving to western France in 2002. While still writing about France, her other passion is greyhounds, helping to rehome rescued dogs through the Galgo News website.