This French Life

Author: Craig McGinty

Bringing balance to the French countryside

HAVE you ever wondered if anyone has a planning policy for those remote walks across tranquil French village fields and meadows?

In fact, city councillors considering the future needs of rural France are bringing these together in documents or certificat urbanismes, revisions of the former site inventories, writes Carol Miers.

While taking a walk through seldom used footpaths you may well be walking across land that has been recorded on inter-crossing maps, for example categorised for ecological significance, or suitable for construction, or as containing heritage sites, or arterial roads.

Nationally, there is a change in policy towards using resources efficiently by grouping houses together and limiting the size of new builds. The new regulations are cemented into a village document.

At Loubejac, in the Dordogne, one such village analysis is now in its primary draft. I attended a meeting for the 273 inhabitants where a presentation by the société URBANAE, introduced the first stage.

It will be followed by a period of consultation where an expert sits in the Mairie to listen to project ideas, suggestions, criticisms and all questions from the villagers to better shape a local constitution. This is how the initial draft will be pushed and stretched into shape.

In order to satisfy future needs and demands for utilities the land categories aim to maximise all interests, from building plots to agricultural needs, leisure to being of tourist interest.

Labels for valleys of significant beauty, primary natural water sources, road passageways, necessary wildlife pathways all bring to mind the assessments for the UK’s sites of special scientific interest.

Preliminary research had included a virtual census of the population, their employment locations and types, ages and status.

It stated the ratio of forest to open land as 53%. The future for each hectare was decided by allocation of a letter, such as N for house building. From discussions with the pompier every new build has to have fire barriers.

Pointing at bar charts the speaker hazarded projections for the growth in population based on the previous ten year pattern.

From this a hypothetical house building plan and the required hectarage was calculated and the total represented as a proportion of available land.

It is reassuring that no decisions are to be taken by a figure in a remote office. After all, as I overheard it said, this is a republic, the French fraternity.

19 May 2012
Taking in the view from the forest path

A RECENT house move has necessitated a new route for the daily dog walks, but there is a reward half way along the forest path.

This is the view looking west from one of the higher points in Loubejac, taking in the Lot-et-Garonne and, beyond the horses, there is a quarry found just outside the village of Sauveterre La Lemance.

11 May 2012
A pick of French herbs and spices

SINCE I starting using a wheelchair I felt there were things I was missing out on, writes Coral Luke.

So, while not being an avid gardener, I do know what I like to see, how it is laid out and the aroma of certain plants. I then decided to badger my husband to let me have a section of garden that I could call my own.

I would need a way of gardening from my chair and that would not prove to be that straightforward as our garden is quite small.

(more…)

9 May 2012
Remembering the missing of the Somme

THIS year sees both the 80th anniversary of the official opening of the Thiepval Memorial and the 20th anniversary of the opening of the Historial de la Grande Guerre, the Museum of the Great War, in Péronne, Picardie.

In commemoration the Historial has organised a free exhibition which is now open until November 25, 2012.

The theme of the exhibition is remembrance, as well as providing some background to the Memorial and how these men became and remain, the Missing of the Somme.

The major part of the exhibition tells the story of an individual recorded as missing on each of the 141 days of the Battle of the Somme in 1916.

Stories are supplemented by personal objects, letters, memoirs as well as others which illustrate a general remembrance theme.

The exhibition also explores how the fate of these men affected society for many years afterwards and why remembrance continues to be important today.

The exhibition is designed to show of the personal stories of those from British and South African Regiments who not only lost their lives but were also, by force of circumstances, denied the honour of a marked grave.

The Historial de la Grande Guerre, located at Chateau de Péronne, 80210 Péronne is open daily from 10am to 6pm.

Admission prices are: Adult – €7.50 (€6 with a voucher available online); over 60s – €6.20; Children aged 6 to 18 – €3.80; a family ticket of 2 adults and 2 children – €20.

Admission to the Missing of the Somme exhibition is free.

9 May 2012
UK pensioners struggle with life in France

ARE you feeling the pinch more than you feel is fair? Is it because of the appalling exchange rate? Is it because you pay more than your fair share in taxes to the UK?

All those on fixed incomes with private pensions might well be affected, writes Brian Cave.

Those of us who by law have to pay income tax to the UK are probably paying far more than a French person would with the same income.

Such people are the ex military, ex-fire service, ex-police service, ex-teachers and ex local government workers.

This group of people on modest pensions probably lose out on the tax rebates, for example available to French people for home helps or gardening help, because you can’t get tax rebates on income tax paid to the UK.

Are you amongst the very elderly who, because you emigrated before 1998, or because you reached retirement age after leaving Britain, do not receive the Winter Fuel Payment?

I have written a piece on my own blog which details the kind of financial affliction that falls on many people.

Graham Richards (who has been leading the battle for fairness for the Equitable Life investment losers in Europe) and myself are compiling evidence on the problems facing some British pensioners in France and elsewhere in Europe.

I am very well aware that this could be a largely hidden problem. I know of two hard up people who have no computer access and haven’t a clue about finances. People are reluctant to come forward.

We would like to create a dossier of case histories, with your help. All information will be kept anonymously, unless you indicate otherwise. Please contact:
Brian Cave (lefourquet@gmail.com) or Graham Richards (graham.richards@orange.fr)

P.S. We would especially like to hear from any former RN personnel who are experiencing financial hardship.

Brian Cave runs the Pensioners Debout! website which campaigns for the British expatriate pensioner in France and Europe.

2 April 2012
Toby’s Tails tell of a dog’s life in France

Toby and Susan take a break from walking and writing

FROM her home in the Sarthe département of north western France, Susan Keefe tells the tale of sheepdog Toby and his French adventures.

Susan wrote Toby’s Tails for children to highlight the needs of animals and the importance of kindness to all living creatures.

Here Susan answers a few questions about her life in France, the inspiration behind the book and how her plans quickly changed resulting in her heading across the Channel.

Craig McGinty: How did you find yourself in France? What was the reason behind the move and were you writing in the UK as well?

Susan Keefe: I have always loved France since my first school trip to Paris. When my children had left school and I remarried one of our wedding presents was a flight to Tours, Michael, my husband fell in love with France too.

Not long after we bought a ruin in the middle of nowhere, our paradise, with a five year plan to stay in the UK and do it up, that lasted less than a year and we found ourselves finding any excuse to come back here as much as possible.

So in the end we sold up and moved over. Now, over six years later we still have a lot of ruin to do up but are sublimely happy. I didn’t write in the UK although I did discover lately a very old primary school report where my teacher said she enjoyed my stories and thought I had a flair for creative writing.

CM: Where did the idea for the book come from and what prompted you to start it?

SK: I have always loved the countryside and nature, my Suffolk dad and granddad used to take me for long walks and teach me about wildlife and the natural world.

I have always bonded strongly with my animals and after loosing one of my Golden Retrievers I by chance visited someone with a Border Collie litter, I fell in love with Toby and he became part of our family.

One day I just sat down and started writing, the book then just grew on the computer, his exploits, our wildlife discoveries, our observations of French life and local places as well as trips to the Loire Valley and further afield tumbled out, and Toby’s Tails was written.

CM: Do you have a typical writing day, any steps you take before starting, any tips to pass on to other writers?

SK: In the peacefulness here I find I can write at any time. I just sit down, Toby, my constant companion wraps himself around my feet, the chair, anywhere as long as he is as close as possible and I begin.

The only tip I would pass on, and I know it’s not original, is write about what you are passionate about and know, I have found that by loving my subject the words just flow.

CM: What inspiration do you draw from the French countryside, as well as the people, for your writing?

SK: Toby and I walk into the beautiful Forest de Berc, which is just behind our house, every day. He is well trained so I never have to call him; we walk in peace and silence.

As a consequence we see plenty of wildlife and meet other people such as our French neighbours working their land, and of course mushroom pickers in season. Everyone knows us and are greeted by Toby before I arrive!

I have found the French people living around us very friendly, we attend village events but otherwise keep ourselves to ourselves and they respect that.

CM: What are your future writing plans? Can readers expect more French adventures?

SK: I am writing Toby’s Tails two (not the real title) where Toby will have lots more adventures, make more discoveries and visit new places.

My husband and I launched on March 1, 2012 a new free online magazine in English about pets called Your Pets Magazine which aim is to teach children about responsible pet ownership.

Amazon.co.uk: Toby’s Tails by Susan Keefe

19 March 2012
Honey and mohair sent to market

THE Sunday market at Cazals, in the Lot (map), is a feast of colour and sounds, but one stall in particular sparkles.

Jars of golden honey catch the morning sun, and scarves, gloves and balls of wool in deep purples, warm oranges and bold blues draw passers-by to the stall of Anne Chuillet and Michel Magne.

After leaving the town life of La Rochelle, and established positions in education and psychology, the couple looked at ways to make a small agricultural business pay, with the appeal of bee keeping coming after Michel read a yellowed, dog-eared book on the subject.

The couple undertook agricultural training, and gained experience of working with a local bee keeper and on a goat farm, before outlining their business plan and looking to establish a small plot of land to start producing honey.

Peche de l’abeille is that plot, found not far from Les Arques and the Zadkine Museum, up a steep winding path, offering views across the valley, their property consists of around a hundred bee hives and 30 or so Angora goats.

Honey production is undertaken on the farm, with the honeycombs taken from the hives, placed in a drum and through centrifugal force the honey is collected and piped out into jars for labelling, as well as used as the base for other products.

The wool off the backs of the Angora goats requires many hours preparation cleaning out bits of grass and twigs, before it is sent off via a collective to Italy where it is processed into mohair and then sent to knitters in France to produce a variety of items such as gloves and scarves.

The couple have a strong bond and connection with their work, it produces little in profit and they both hold down other part-time positions, but they have plans for Peche de l’abeille.

Their workshop is slowly expanding and it is hoped that visitors and school children will be able to find out more about the production of honey and care of the goats, ensuring people stay in touch with the natural world around them.

Au Peche de l’abeille, 46250 Les Arques, 05 65 21 47 10

8 March 2012
Dordogne visits off the beaten track

The night market in Loubejac takes place every Thursday during the summer months
VISITORS to the Dordogne have a multitude of discoveries to make, but if you are here in July and August then slow moving lines of traffic and crowds of people in many of the popular stops are things you have to endure.

But what if you wanted to go somewhere a little off the beaten? Places that are a little quieter, give you a chance to breath or experience a dash of real French life.

Here is a pick of places to visit in the southern reaches of the Dordogne, and if you have any favourites then feel free to add a comment below.

Urval
You will experience a sense of the real Périgord in Urval. With a medieval fortified church and a 14th century communal bread oven you have a sense of time travel.

Above the bread oven you will see the shelving for the loaves, and stretch your neck up high to get a sense of the presence the church must have once enjoyed. There are a number of sign-posted walks that will take you up the hillsides offering views over this ‘hidden gem’.

Villefranche-du-Périgord

Of course I am biased as this is my local village, but it is a real Dordogne village which is a little rough around the edges, but retains its sense of the countryside. There is a tourist office and small museum about the cèpe mushroom and chestnut, noting its importance to the region.

But take a stroll on the south side of the village in the morning and you get a sense of the village’s bastide roots which date back to 1261. (see: A village view of Villefranche du Périgord)

Loubejac night market (map)
Another local favourite, and whilst some nights you might think half the Dordogne has turned up, again it is another place where you get a sense of French life and not the tourist trappings.

Local producers turn up every Thursday evening in July and August to offer duck, breads, soups, salads, wine, fruits of all types and you can sit down with friends to enjoy a leisurely evening under Loubejac’s church tower. Remember to bring your own knives and forks. And even if you can’t make it head up to Loubejac for a stunning view across the southern tip of the Dordogne. (see: Drop in on a farmers market in France)

D704 road north out of Sarlat (map)
If you can escape the crowds of Sarlat, then a few kilometres out of the town you will be able to enjoy a beautiful view over the woods of the Périgord Noir. Across a full 180 degrees look east and take in the Dordogne countryside, and if you keep an eye open you can spot one or two fine examples of a lauze roof, with its distinctive large, flat stones.

Château de Bonaguil
A small step over the border into the Lot-et-Garonne for one of the region’s most striking castles, often bypassed by those heading to the likes of Baynac and Castelnaud on the river Dordogne. Bonaguil is worth a visit for its dramatic setting and its variety of building techniques and features, with its foundations dating from the 13th century all the way through to its partial destruction during the Revolution.

Its walls feature medieval graffiti, there are caves, defensive structures designed for sharpshooters and if you get to the top of the keep, shaped like a ship, a view over the surrounding countryside. And it is worth walking down to the surrounding village for a great photographic view of Bonaguil, as well as a refreshing ice cream.

Zadkine Museum
If I can stay just outside the Dordogne, this time in the Lot, then I have often taken friends to the museum which features the work of sculptor Ossip Zadkine, at Les Arques. Here you will see a variety of pieces, from small examples of his metalwork to towering wooden sculptures worked from trees dragged from the surrounding woods.

Les Arques is a lovely village to stroll around, it also has a small artists communal centre that features events during the summer. But the real secret is a couple of kilometres away, pick up the key for the Église St Andre which was brought back to life by Zadkine in the 1950s and features remarkable frescoes from the late 15C – it is a mystical place. (see: Zadkine museum, Les Arques, the Lot)

Filature de Belvès
I think a visit to the Filature de Belvès, or woollen mill, is worth your time just for what they are trying to do, and that is tell the story of a once important trade in the Dordogne.

The mill was working until the 1990s, and has a long history, but it is only recently that volunteers have looked to bring the machinery and some of the techniques back to life. Animated guides offer up detailed information on how the mill worked, and you can also take a gentle stroll around the surrounding ponds, busy with wildlife. (see: Woolen mill Filature de Belvès)

5 March 2012
Pine processionary caterpillars on the march

IF you have seen white, candyfloss styled webs high in pine trees, keep a watchful eye on the ground for the Pine processionary caterpillar.

It is at this time of year that the caterpillars head to woodland floors in search of a place to pupate and it is when you will see the characteristic long lines as they follow each other nose to tail.

And while that is a view of nature to behold, the Pine processionary caterpillar has a horrible ‘feature’, the small hairs on its back are poisonous and can be a terrible irritant if touched.

But cats and dogs are particularly at risk as the fine hairs can become embedded in the mouth, or stomach, and if not spotted quickly and dealt with by a vet, can prove fatal.

Beyond keeping your pets close to heel, there is little you can do to keep the caterpillars at bay. Professionals will use blow torch apparatus to burn the insects, but the trees in a small area will play host to hundreds of nests.

So just keep an eye out between now and May for the Pine processionary caterpillar, stay clear of pine trees if you are worried, and let the beasties progress on their way.

Related: Asian hornet battle set to start

5 March 2012
Asian hornet battle set to start

BEE keepers across south west France will be keeping a keen eye out over the next few weeks as the beginning of spring prompts the dreaded Asian hornet, or Vespa velutina, to make its nests.

Queen hornets will start producing workers very soon to build the large football shaped nests, often found in trees close to a source of water.

And whilst an impressive looking structure the Asian hornets within can decimate a bee colony by invading the hive and picking off victims.

Asian hornets are distinguished by yellow tipped legs, with a dark brown or black thorax, and they usually measure around 25mm in length.

They are believed to have arrived in France via a container ship in 2004 with the first nests spotted near Agen the following year, and from there the Asian hornets continued to spread through Aquitaine.

Cases have been recorded of people being stung by a swarm of Asian hornets but it is still rare and they are not more potent than similar species.

Although their spread across France as far as Paris and Brittany will increase the risk of an attack and people with bee allergies are advised to take great caution.

Nests are a fairly common sight here in the south of the Dordogne, with one method used to destroy them being the local hunters taking pot-shots at the structures.

But regional officials are keen to take more effective action and many Mairies here in the south west of France have designated a person to be the first point of contact should local residents spot an Asian hornet nest.

Have you spotted the presence of Asian hornets near you? Please feel free to pass on any observations or tips via the comment form below.

29 February 2012